BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

R-Value per Inch by Material — and the Three Reasons the Chart Lies a Little

Every insulation product publishes an R-value per inch, and multiplying by thickness works right up until it does not. Three effects move the real number, all in the same direction.

Cross-section samples of several insulation materials
Cross-section samples of several insulation materials

R-value measures resistance to heat flow, and it adds up through layers. Every material publishes a figure per inch, so the arithmetic looks simple: thickness × R-per-inch.

The chart

Material R per inch
Blown fiberglass (loose fill) 2.2–2.7
Fiberglass batt (standard) 3.1–3.4
Mineral wool batt 3.0–4.3
Blown cellulose 3.2–3.8
Open-cell spray foam 3.5–3.7
EPS rigid board 3.6–4.2
XPS rigid board 4.7–5.0
Closed-cell spray foam 6.0–7.0
Polyiso rigid board 5.6–6.5
Softwood framing ~1.25

Thickness needed for R-30 in different materials

The spread from top to bottom is roughly threefold. Reaching R-30 takes about 12 inches of blown fiberglass or a little over 4 inches of closed-cell foam — which is why the choice is usually decided by how much depth you have, not by the material's merits.

The framing row is there deliberately. A wood stud is insulation too, just very poor insulation, and that fact is the whole subject of why the cavity number is not the wall number.

Reason one: polyiso loses R in the cold

Polyiso has the best published number of any common board, and it is the one number that does not hold when you need it.

Its R-value falls as temperature falls — a behaviour usually called thermal drift. A board rated R-6.5 per inch at mild temperatures can perform closer to R-5 or below on a genuinely cold night.

That is precisely backwards from what insulation is for. On the coldest night of the year, the material is at its worst.

The practical consequence: polyiso is excellent for roofs and warm-side applications, and a poor choice for cold-climate exterior walls where XPS or EPS hold their rating. Some manufacturers now publish cold-temperature values, and where they do, use those.

Reason two: loose fill settles

Blown insulation is installed to a depth and then compacts under its own weight. Cellulose typically settles somewhere around 15–20% of installed depth.

Blow 14 inches and come back in two years to 11 or 12. The R-value falls with the depth, and nothing about the attic looks different — this is a loss that happens silently.

The fix is in the installation: manufacturers publish a settled depth and an installed depth, and you install to the deeper figure. Bag coverage charts state both. Working from settled depth alone leaves the attic under-insulated as soon as it settles.

Loose-fill fiberglass settles far less than cellulose, which partly offsets its lower R per inch.

Reason three: compression

Fiberglass gets its R-value from trapped air. Squash it and you remove the air.

An R-19 batt is designed for a 6¼-inch cavity. Push it into a 5½-inch 2×6 stud bay — which happens constantly — and it delivers around R-18, not R-19. Stuff an R-30 batt into a 2×8 floor joist bay and the loss is larger.

Same in the other direction: an under-filled cavity leaves gaps, and a gap is a direct path for air rather than a slightly worse insulator. Voids around wiring and boxes cost more than their area suggests.

This is why high-density batts exist — R-15 in a 3½-inch 2×4 cavity, where a standard batt gives R-13, achieved by packing more fiber into the same depth rather than by compressing.

Using the chart properly

  1. Measure the depth you actually have. In a 2×6 wall that is 5½ inches, not 6.
  2. Divide the target R by the material's R per inch to see whether it fits.
  3. If it does not fit, you need a denser material or continuous exterior insulation — not a compressed batt.
  4. For loose fill, work from settled depth and install deeper.

Depth-to-R for attics specifically is in how many inches for R-49, and the targets themselves in R-value by climate zone.

FAQ

What insulation has the highest R-value per inch?

Closed-cell spray foam at 6–7 per inch. Polyiso board publishes similar figures but loses R-value in cold weather.

How thick does insulation need to be for R-30?

About 12 inches of blown fiberglass, 8–9 inches of cellulose, or a little over 4 inches of closed-cell spray foam.

Does compressing insulation reduce R-value?

Yes. Fiberglass insulates by trapping air, so compressing it removes air. An R-19 batt in a 5½-inch cavity delivers about R-18.

Does blown insulation settle?

Cellulose settles roughly 15–20% of installed depth. Install to the manufacturer's installed depth, not the settled depth, or the attic ends up short.

Why is polyiso a poor choice in cold climates?

Its R-value drops as temperature falls, so it performs worst exactly when insulation matters most. XPS and EPS hold their ratings in the cold.

Work it out

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R-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them. — BattWise. Editorial policy