BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation batts for a 75 × 9 ft 2×6 wall at 16″ on centre — mineral wool

mineral wool batts
743ft² to buy
675 ft² of wall plus 10% — R-23 in 2×6 framing at 16″ o.c.
Wall, seen flatstuds at 16″ o.c. — the dark stripsR-23on the bagR-14.5the actual wall−37% to the framing
Wall area75 ft × 9 ft675ft²
Batts to buyincludes 10% for cuts743ft²
Nominal R-valuemineral wool in a 5.5″ cavityR-23
Effective wall R-valueafter 25% framing at R-6.9R-14.5
Lost to thermal bridgingthe gap between the bag and the wall37%
Studs16″ on centre over 75 ft58studs
Rolls (88 ft² each)if buying rolls rather than pre-cut batts9rolls
Cavity depth2×6 framing5.5″
Wall length
75 ft
Wall height
9 ft
Framing
2×6
Stud spacing
16 in
Material
mineral wool

What to buy

675 ft² of wall, plus 10% for cuts around boxes, windows and bracing — 743 ft² of mineral wool batts, or about 9 rolls.

What the bag says, and what the wall does

The bag says R-23. The wall performs at about R-14.5.

Wood conducts roughly three times as readily as insulation, and about 25% of a framed wall is wood once you count doubled studs at corners and intersections, headers over openings, and the top and bottom plates. That is 37% of the rated value gone before a single batt is installed badly.

This is calculated the way ASHRAE does it — averaging conductance across the two paths. Averaging R-values instead gives a friendlier number that overstates real wall performance by several points, and it is the version most calculators quietly use.

The fix is on the outside

Continuous exterior insulation is the only thing that addresses this, because it is the only thing that interrupts every thermal bridge at once. An inch of rigid foam outside the sheathing adds more to the effective wall R-value than upgrading the cavity batt does.

Install decides the rest

Split batts around wiring instead of crushing them behind. Cut around electrical boxes rather than over them. Make sure the batt touches the drywall — a gap on the warm side lets air loop behind the insulation and short-circuits it completely, and it is invisible once the wall is closed.

Notes

  • The bag says R-23; the wall performs at about **R-14.5**. Wood conducts about three times as readily as insulation, and roughly 25% of a framed wall is wood once you count doubled studs at corners and intersections, headers and the top and bottom plates. That is 37% of the rated value gone before anything is installed badly.
  • This is calculated the way ASHRAE does it — averaging conductance across the two paths, not averaging R-values. Averaging R-values gives a higher, friendlier number that overstates real wall performance by several points.
  • Continuous exterior insulation is the fix, and it is the only one. An inch of rigid foam outside the sheathing breaks every thermal bridge at once and adds more to the effective wall R than upgrading the cavity batt does.
  • Mineral wool holds its shape and cuts clean, which matters more than the R difference — a batt that friction-fits without gaps outperforms a higher-rated batt that has been stuffed and compressed.
  • Install matters as much as the number. Split batts around wiring rather than crushing them behind, cut around boxes rather than over them, and make sure the batt touches the drywall — a gap on the warm side lets air loop behind the insulation and short-circuits it entirely.

Nearby sizes

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