BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation payback for 600 ft² from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3 heating with natural gas

Annual saving
$5a year
600 ft² from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3, heating with natural gas
What each R-10 is worth, per year$6first R-10from R-30$6last R-10to R-38Savings follow 1/R — every inch returns less than the one before it
Annual saving4 therm of natural gas$5
Heat saved600 ft² × 2,800 HDD × 24 × 0.0070.3MMBTU/yr
Cost — DIY material$0.030 per ft² per R$144
Cost — installed$0.060 per ft² per R$288
Payback — DIY27.1years
Payback — installed54.3years
20-year return on DIY costinsulation does not wear out0.7×
First R-10 is worthgoing from R-30 up$6/yr
Last R-10 is worthsame step — target is within R-10 of existing$6/yr
ClimateAtlanta, Dallas, Los AngelesZone 3 — 2,800 HDD
Heating system80% efficient, $1.5/therm assumedNatural gas
Area
600 ft²
Existing R-value
30
Target R-value
38
Climate zone
Zone 3
Heating fuel
natural gas

The saving

600 ft² going from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3 (2,800 heating degree days — Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles) cuts about 0.3 MMBTU a year of heat loss. On natural gas that is 4 therm of fuel, worth $5 a year.

Payback

DIY material comes to about $144, which pays back in 27.1 years. Contractor-installed runs near $288 and pays back in 54.3. Over twenty years the DIY cost returns 0.7 times over — insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out.

Why the last inch is nearly worthless

This is the part almost nobody calculates, and it changes decisions.

Savings follow the difference between two reciprocals, not the difference between two R-values. The first R-10 of this upgrade is worth $6 a year. The last R-10 is worth $6.

That is why "more R is always better" is bad advice. Past a point you are buying insulation whose payback is longer than the roof above it.

Climate is half the answer

The same job saves $5 in Zone 3. In Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $15; in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD, $3. Advice written for one climate is simply wrong in another, and most insulation advice on the internet does not say which climate it was written for.

What is assumed

Fuel priced at the US average, and the relationship is linear — scale it for your own bill. Utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the country, which is enough to move a ten-year payback either side of five.

Notes

  • **The first R-10 does most of the work.** Going from R-30 up buys $6 a year; the last R-10 of this upgrade buys $6. Savings track the difference between two *reciprocals*, not the difference between two R-values, so every additional inch returns less than the one before it. "More R is always better" is how people talk themselves into a 30-year payback.
  • A 27.1-year payback is long. In Zone 3 with natural gas the heat being lost is not worth enough to justify this much insulation. Either stop at a lower R-value, or spend the money on air sealing and duct work instead.
  • Climate is half the answer. The same job in Zone 3 (2,800 HDD) saves $5; in Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $15, and in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD only $3. Advice written for one climate is wrong in another.
  • Natural gas at 80% efficiency means 25% of what you buy goes up the flue before it reaches the room. Insulation saves the delivered heat, so the fuel saved is larger than the heat saved.
  • Prices assumed: $1.5 per therm. Scale the saving straight through for your own rate — the relationship is linear, and utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the US.
  • Existing R-value is taken as installed and dry. Insulation that has been compressed, wetted or walked on performs below its label, so real savings on an old attic often run higher than this.

Nearby sizes

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