BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation payback for 400 ft² from R-11 to R-30 in Zone 2 heating with electric resistance

Annual saving
$36a year
400 ft² from R-11 to R-30 in Zone 2, heating with electric resistance
What each R-10 is worth, per year$27first R-10from R-11$11last R-10to R-30Savings follow 1/R — every inch returns less than the one before it
Annual saving243 kWh of electric resistance$36
Heat saved400 ft² × 1,500 HDD × 24 × 0.0580.8MMBTU/yr
Cost — DIY material$0.030 per ft² per R$228
Cost — installed$0.060 per ft² per R$456
Payback — DIY6.3years
Payback — installed12.5years
20-year return on DIY costinsulation does not wear out3.2×
First R-10 is worthgoing from R-11 up$27/yr
Last R-10 is worthgoing from R-20 to R-30$11/yr
ClimateHouston, Orlando, PhoenixZone 2 — 1,500 HDD
Heating system100% efficient, $0.15/kWh assumedElectric resistance
Area
400 ft²
Existing R-value
11
Target R-value
30
Climate zone
Zone 2
Heating fuel
electric resistance

The saving

400 ft² going from R-11 to R-30 in Zone 2 (1,500 heating degree days — Houston, Orlando, Phoenix) cuts about 0.8 MMBTU a year of heat loss. On electric resistance that is 243 kWh of fuel, worth $36 a year.

Payback

DIY material comes to about $228, which pays back in 6.3 years. Contractor-installed runs near $456 and pays back in 12.5. Over twenty years the DIY cost returns 3.2 times over — insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out.

Why the last inch is nearly worthless

This is the part almost nobody calculates, and it changes decisions.

Savings follow the difference between two reciprocals, not the difference between two R-values. The first R-10 of this upgrade is worth $27 a year. The last R-10 is worth $11.

That is why "more R is always better" is bad advice. Past a point you are buying insulation whose payback is longer than the roof above it.

Climate is half the answer

The same job saves $36 in Zone 2. In Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $192; in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD, $36. Advice written for one climate is simply wrong in another, and most insulation advice on the internet does not say which climate it was written for.

What is assumed

Fuel priced at the US average, and the relationship is linear — scale it for your own bill. Utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the country, which is enough to move a ten-year payback either side of five.

Notes

  • **The first R-10 does most of the work.** Going from R-11 up buys $27 a year; the last R-10 of this upgrade buys $11. Savings track the difference between two *reciprocals*, not the difference between two R-values, so every additional inch returns less than the one before it. "More R is always better" is how people talk themselves into a 30-year payback.
  • A 6.3-year DIY payback is reasonable but not spectacular. It beats doing nothing if you are staying in the house; if you might move within five years, the return goes to whoever buys it.
  • Climate is half the answer. The same job in Zone 2 (1,500 HDD) saves $36; in Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $192, and in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD only $36. Advice written for one climate is wrong in another.
  • Electric resistance at 100% efficiency means 0% of what you buy goes up the flue before it reaches the room. Insulation saves the delivered heat, so the fuel saved is larger than the heat saved.
  • Prices assumed: $0.15 per kWh. Scale the saving straight through for your own rate — the relationship is linear, and utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the US.
  • Existing R-value is taken as installed and dry. Insulation that has been compressed, wetted or walked on performs below its label, so real savings on an old attic often run higher than this.

Nearby sizes

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