BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation payback for 2800 ft² from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3 heating with a heat pump

Annual saving
$23a year
2,800 ft² from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3, heating with heat pump
Annual saving155 kWh of heat pump$23
Heat saved2,800 ft² × 2,800 HDD × 24 × 0.0071.3MMBTU/yr
Cost — DIY material$0.030 per ft² per R$672
Cost — installed$0.060 per ft² per R$1,344
Payback — DIY28.9years
Payback — installed57.9years
20-year return on DIY costinsulation does not wear out0.7×
First R-10 is worthgoing from R-30 up$28/yr
Last R-10 is worthsame step — target is within R-10 of existing$28/yr
ClimateAtlanta, Dallas, Los AngelesZone 3 — 2,800 HDD
Heating systemCOP 2.5, $0.15/kWh assumedHeat pump
Area
2800 ft²
Existing R-value
30
Target R-value
38
Climate zone
Zone 3
Heating fuel
a heat pump

The saving

2800 ft² going from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3 (2,800 heating degree days — Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles) cuts about 1.3 MMBTU a year of heat loss. On a heat pump that is 155 kWh of fuel, worth $23 a year.

Payback

DIY material comes to about $672, which pays back in 28.9 years. Contractor-installed runs near $1,344 and pays back in 57.9. Over twenty years the DIY cost returns 0.7 times over — insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out.

Why the last inch is nearly worthless

This is the part almost nobody calculates, and it changes decisions.

Savings follow the difference between two reciprocals, not the difference between two R-values. The first R-10 of this upgrade is worth $28 a year. The last R-10 is worth $28.

That is why "more R is always better" is bad advice. Past a point you are buying insulation whose payback is longer than the roof above it.

Climate is half the answer

The same job saves $23 in Zone 3. In Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $66; in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD, $12. Advice written for one climate is simply wrong in another, and most insulation advice on the internet does not say which climate it was written for.

What is assumed

Fuel priced at the US average, and the relationship is linear — scale it for your own bill. Utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the country, which is enough to move a ten-year payback either side of five.

Notes

  • **The first R-10 does most of the work.** Going from R-30 up buys $28 a year; the last R-10 of this upgrade buys $28. Savings track the difference between two *reciprocals*, not the difference between two R-values, so every additional inch returns less than the one before it. "More R is always better" is how people talk themselves into a 30-year payback.
  • A 28.9-year payback is long. In Zone 3 with heat pump the heat being lost is not worth enough to justify this much insulation. Either stop at a lower R-value, or spend the money on air sealing and duct work instead.
  • Climate is half the answer. The same job in Zone 3 (2,800 HDD) saves $23; in Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $66, and in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD only $12. Advice written for one climate is wrong in another.
  • A heat pump moves heat rather than making it, so each unit of electricity delivers 2.5 units of heat. That is exactly why insulation pays back more slowly on a heat pump — the heat you are keeping in was cheap to produce in the first place.
  • Prices assumed: $0.15 per kWh. Scale the saving straight through for your own rate — the relationship is linear, and utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the US.
  • Existing R-value is taken as installed and dry. Insulation that has been compressed, wetted or walked on performs below its label, so real savings on an old attic often run higher than this.

Nearby sizes

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