BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation payback for 2200 ft² from R-0 to R-30 in Zone 5 heating with electric resistance

Annual saving
$4,387a year
2,200 ft² from R-0 to R-30 in Zone 5, heating with electric resistance
Annual saving29,247 kWh of electric resistance$4,387
Heat saved2,200 ft² × 6,300 HDD × 24 × 0.399.8MMBTU/yr
Cost — DIY material$0.030 per ft² per R$1,980
Cost — installed$0.060 per ft² per R$3,960
Payback — DIY0.5years
Payback — installed0.9years
20-year return on DIY costinsulation does not wear out44.3×
First R-10 is worthgoing from R-0 up$3,750/yr
Last R-10 is worthgoing from R-20 to R-30$244/yr
ClimateChicago, Denver, BostonZone 5 — 6,300 HDD
Heating system100% efficient, $0.15/kWh assumedElectric resistance
Area
2200 ft²
Existing R-value
0
Target R-value
30
Climate zone
Zone 5
Heating fuel
electric resistance

The saving

2200 ft² going from R-0 to R-30 in Zone 5 (6,300 heating degree days — Chicago, Denver, Boston) cuts about 99.8 MMBTU a year of heat loss. On electric resistance that is 29,247 kWh of fuel, worth $4,387 a year.

Payback

DIY material comes to about $1,980, which pays back in 0.5 years. Contractor-installed runs near $3,960 and pays back in 0.9. Over twenty years the DIY cost returns 44.3 times over — insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out.

Why the last inch is nearly worthless

This is the part almost nobody calculates, and it changes decisions.

Savings follow the difference between two reciprocals, not the difference between two R-values. The first R-10 of this upgrade is worth $3,750 a year. The last R-10 is worth $244.

That is why "more R is always better" is bad advice. Past a point you are buying insulation whose payback is longer than the roof above it.

Climate is half the answer

The same job saves $4,387 in Zone 5. In Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $5,501; in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD, $1,045. Advice written for one climate is simply wrong in another, and most insulation advice on the internet does not say which climate it was written for.

What is assumed

Fuel priced at the US average, and the relationship is linear — scale it for your own bill. Utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the country, which is enough to move a ten-year payback either side of five.

Notes

  • **The first R-10 does most of the work.** Going from R-0 up buys $3,750 a year; the last R-10 of this upgrade buys $244. Savings track the difference between two *reciprocals*, not the difference between two R-values, so every additional inch returns less than the one before it. "More R is always better" is how people talk themselves into a 30-year payback.
  • A 0.5-year DIY payback is genuinely good — few things you can buy for a house return like that, and insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out. Over 20 years the DIY cost comes back 44.3 times over.
  • Climate is half the answer. The same job in Zone 5 (6,300 HDD) saves $4,387; in Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $5,501, and in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD only $1,045. Advice written for one climate is wrong in another.
  • Electric resistance at 100% efficiency means 0% of what you buy goes up the flue before it reaches the room. Insulation saves the delivered heat, so the fuel saved is larger than the heat saved.
  • Prices assumed: $0.15 per kWh. Scale the saving straight through for your own rate — the relationship is linear, and utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the US.
  • "R-0" is shorthand for uninsulated, not for zero resistance. Drywall, air films and the roof assembly already give about R-3, and that is the figure used here — dividing by a true zero would give an infinite saving.

Nearby sizes

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