BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation payback for 1600 ft² from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3 heating with propane

Annual saving
$29a year
1,600 ft² from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3, heating with propane
What each R-10 is worth, per year$34first R-10from R-30$34last R-10to R-38Savings follow 1/R — every inch returns less than the one before it
Annual saving10 gal of propane$29
Heat saved1,600 ft² × 2,800 HDD × 24 × 0.0070.8MMBTU/yr
Cost — DIY material$0.030 per ft² per R$384
Cost — installed$0.060 per ft² per R$768
Payback — DIY13.3years
Payback — installed26.6years
20-year return on DIY costinsulation does not wear out1.5×
First R-10 is worthgoing from R-30 up$34/yr
Last R-10 is worthsame step — target is within R-10 of existing$34/yr
ClimateAtlanta, Dallas, Los AngelesZone 3 — 2,800 HDD
Heating system80% efficient, $2.8/gal assumedPropane
Area
1600 ft²
Existing R-value
30
Target R-value
38
Climate zone
Zone 3
Heating fuel
propane

The saving

1600 ft² going from R-30 to R-38 in Zone 3 (2,800 heating degree days — Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles) cuts about 0.8 MMBTU a year of heat loss. On propane that is 10 gal of fuel, worth $29 a year.

Payback

DIY material comes to about $384, which pays back in 13.3 years. Contractor-installed runs near $768 and pays back in 26.6. Over twenty years the DIY cost returns 1.5 times over — insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out.

Why the last inch is nearly worthless

This is the part almost nobody calculates, and it changes decisions.

Savings follow the difference between two reciprocals, not the difference between two R-values. The first R-10 of this upgrade is worth $34 a year. The last R-10 is worth $34.

That is why "more R is always better" is bad advice. Past a point you are buying insulation whose payback is longer than the roof above it.

Climate is half the answer

The same job saves $29 in Zone 3. In Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $81; in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD, $15. Advice written for one climate is simply wrong in another, and most insulation advice on the internet does not say which climate it was written for.

What is assumed

Fuel priced at the US average, and the relationship is linear — scale it for your own bill. Utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the country, which is enough to move a ten-year payback either side of five.

Notes

  • **The first R-10 does most of the work.** Going from R-30 up buys $34 a year; the last R-10 of this upgrade buys $34. Savings track the difference between two *reciprocals*, not the difference between two R-values, so every additional inch returns less than the one before it. "More R is always better" is how people talk themselves into a 30-year payback.
  • A 13.3-year payback is long. In Zone 3 with propane the heat being lost is not worth enough to justify this much insulation. Either stop at a lower R-value, or spend the money on air sealing and duct work instead.
  • Climate is half the answer. The same job in Zone 3 (2,800 HDD) saves $29; in Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $81, and in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD only $15. Advice written for one climate is wrong in another.
  • Propane at 80% efficiency means 25% of what you buy goes up the flue before it reaches the room. Insulation saves the delivered heat, so the fuel saved is larger than the heat saved.
  • Prices assumed: $2.8 per gal. Scale the saving straight through for your own rate — the relationship is linear, and utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the US.
  • Existing R-value is taken as installed and dry. Insulation that has been compressed, wetted or walked on performs below its label, so real savings on an old attic often run higher than this.

Nearby sizes

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