BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation payback for 1000 ft² from R-11 to R-30 in Zone 4 heating with a heat pump

Annual saving
$114a year
1,000 ft² from R-11 to R-30 in Zone 4, heating with heat pump
What each R-10 is worth, per year$86first R-10from R-11$33last R-10to R-30Savings follow 1/R — every inch returns less than the one before it
Annual saving761 kWh of heat pump$114
Heat saved1,000 ft² × 4,700 HDD × 24 × 0.0586.5MMBTU/yr
Cost — DIY material$0.030 per ft² per R$570
Cost — installed$0.060 per ft² per R$1,140
Payback — DIY5years
Payback — installed10years
20-year return on DIY costinsulation does not wear out
First R-10 is worthgoing from R-11 up$86/yr
Last R-10 is worthgoing from R-20 to R-30$33/yr
ClimateBaltimore, St Louis, SeattleZone 4 — 4,700 HDD
Heating systemCOP 2.5, $0.15/kWh assumedHeat pump
Area
1000 ft²
Existing R-value
11
Target R-value
30
Climate zone
Zone 4
Heating fuel
a heat pump

The saving

1000 ft² going from R-11 to R-30 in Zone 4 (4,700 heating degree days — Baltimore, St Louis, Seattle) cuts about 6.5 MMBTU a year of heat loss. On a heat pump that is 761 kWh of fuel, worth $114 a year.

Payback

DIY material comes to about $570, which pays back in 5 years. Contractor-installed runs near $1,140 and pays back in 10. Over twenty years the DIY cost returns 4 times over — insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out.

Why the last inch is nearly worthless

This is the part almost nobody calculates, and it changes decisions.

Savings follow the difference between two reciprocals, not the difference between two R-values. The first R-10 of this upgrade is worth $86 a year. The last R-10 is worth $33.

That is why "more R is always better" is bad advice. Past a point you are buying insulation whose payback is longer than the roof above it.

Climate is half the answer

The same job saves $114 in Zone 4. In Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $192; in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD, $36. Advice written for one climate is simply wrong in another, and most insulation advice on the internet does not say which climate it was written for.

What is assumed

Fuel priced at the US average, and the relationship is linear — scale it for your own bill. Utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the country, which is enough to move a ten-year payback either side of five.

Notes

  • **The first R-10 does most of the work.** Going from R-11 up buys $86 a year; the last R-10 of this upgrade buys $33. Savings track the difference between two *reciprocals*, not the difference between two R-values, so every additional inch returns less than the one before it. "More R is always better" is how people talk themselves into a 30-year payback.
  • A 5-year DIY payback is genuinely good — few things you can buy for a house return like that, and insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out. Over 20 years the DIY cost comes back 4 times over.
  • Climate is half the answer. The same job in Zone 4 (4,700 HDD) saves $114; in Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $192, and in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD only $36. Advice written for one climate is wrong in another.
  • A heat pump moves heat rather than making it, so each unit of electricity delivers 2.5 units of heat. That is exactly why insulation pays back more slowly on a heat pump — the heat you are keeping in was cheap to produce in the first place.
  • Prices assumed: $0.15 per kWh. Scale the saving straight through for your own rate — the relationship is linear, and utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the US.
  • Existing R-value is taken as installed and dry. Insulation that has been compressed, wetted or walked on performs below its label, so real savings on an old attic often run higher than this.

Nearby sizes

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