BattWiseR-value targets by climate zone, and what it takes to hit them.

Insulation payback for 1000 ft² from R-0 to R-30 in Zone 3 heating with propane

Annual saving
$771a year
1,000 ft² from R-0 to R-30 in Zone 3, heating with propane
What each R-10 is worth, per year$659first R-10from R-0$43last R-10to R-30Savings follow 1/R — every inch returns less than the one before it
Annual saving275 gal of propane$771
Heat saved1,000 ft² × 2,800 HDD × 24 × 0.320.2MMBTU/yr
Cost — DIY material$0.030 per ft² per R$900
Cost — installed$0.060 per ft² per R$1,800
Payback — DIY1.2years
Payback — installed2.3years
20-year return on DIY costinsulation does not wear out17.1×
First R-10 is worthgoing from R-0 up$659/yr
Last R-10 is worthgoing from R-20 to R-30$43/yr
ClimateAtlanta, Dallas, Los AngelesZone 3 — 2,800 HDD
Heating system80% efficient, $2.8/gal assumedPropane
Area
1000 ft²
Existing R-value
0
Target R-value
30
Climate zone
Zone 3
Heating fuel
propane

The saving

1000 ft² going from R-0 to R-30 in Zone 3 (2,800 heating degree days — Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles) cuts about 20.2 MMBTU a year of heat loss. On propane that is 275 gal of fuel, worth $771 a year.

Payback

DIY material comes to about $900, which pays back in 1.2 years. Contractor-installed runs near $1,800 and pays back in 2.3. Over twenty years the DIY cost returns 17.1 times over — insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out.

Why the last inch is nearly worthless

This is the part almost nobody calculates, and it changes decisions.

Savings follow the difference between two reciprocals, not the difference between two R-values. The first R-10 of this upgrade is worth $659 a year. The last R-10 is worth $43.

That is why "more R is always better" is bad advice. Past a point you are buying insulation whose payback is longer than the roof above it.

Climate is half the answer

The same job saves $771 in Zone 3. In Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $2,176; in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD, $413. Advice written for one climate is simply wrong in another, and most insulation advice on the internet does not say which climate it was written for.

What is assumed

Fuel priced at the US average, and the relationship is linear — scale it for your own bill. Utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the country, which is enough to move a ten-year payback either side of five.

Notes

  • **The first R-10 does most of the work.** Going from R-0 up buys $659 a year; the last R-10 of this upgrade buys $43. Savings track the difference between two *reciprocals*, not the difference between two R-values, so every additional inch returns less than the one before it. "More R is always better" is how people talk themselves into a 30-year payback.
  • A 1.2-year DIY payback is genuinely good — few things you can buy for a house return like that, and insulation has no moving parts and does not wear out. Over 20 years the DIY cost comes back 17.1 times over.
  • Climate is half the answer. The same job in Zone 3 (2,800 HDD) saves $771; in Zone 6 at 7,900 HDD it would save $2,176, and in Zone 2 at 1,500 HDD only $413. Advice written for one climate is wrong in another.
  • Propane at 80% efficiency means 25% of what you buy goes up the flue before it reaches the room. Insulation saves the delivered heat, so the fuel saved is larger than the heat saved.
  • Prices assumed: $2.8 per gal. Scale the saving straight through for your own rate — the relationship is linear, and utility rates vary by more than a factor of two across the US.
  • "R-0" is shorthand for uninsulated, not for zero resistance. Drywall, air films and the roof assembly already give about R-3, and that is the figure used here — dividing by a true zero would give an infinite saving.

Nearby sizes

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